Renowned Climber Jim Whittaker Passes Away at 97
The world of mountaineering mourns the loss of Jim Whittaker, the pioneering climber who became the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest. Whittaker passed away peacefully at his residence in Port Townsend, Washington, at the age of 97, as confirmed by a family statement.
Born in Seattle, Whittaker’s passion for climbing began in his teenage years alongside his twin brother, Lou. Their early adventures with the Boy Scouts ignited a lifelong dedication to the sport. Jim Whittaker made history in 1963 when he successfully climbed Everest with Nawang Gombu, a decade after the iconic ascent by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. This achievement skyrocketed his fame, leading to magazine features and numerous public engagements.
From Everest to REI Leadership
Whittaker’s career was not limited to mountaineering. He was the first full-time employee of REI, an outdoor retailer where he eventually served as president and CEO from 1971 to 1979. During his leadership, REI’s membership expanded from about 250,000 to over 900,000. His influence extended into environmental advocacy, contributing efforts that helped establish several national parks.
“Long before outdoor advocacy was commonplace, Jim gave his voice — and his leadership — to protecting the places we love,” noted REI in a statement.
Friendship with the Kennedys and Personal Reflections
Whittaker’s fame also brought him close to the Kennedy family. He formed a strong bond with Robert Kennedy, accompanying him on a climb of a Canadian peak later named Mount Kennedy. Whittaker was present at Kennedy’s side during his final moments and was deeply affected by his assassination.
Reflecting on his life, Whittaker once said, “When you live on the edge, you can see a little farther.” His memoir, “A Life on the Edge,” chronicles his adventures and the pivotal moments that shaped his life.
Legacy of Unity and Advocacy
Whittaker’s legacy extends beyond climbing. He organized the 1990 Mount Everest International Peace Climb, which united climbers from the U.S., Soviet Union, and China. His family remembered him as a “lifelong advocate for peace,” believing in the power of nature to unite people.
One of his proudest achievements was leading a group of disabled climbers up Mount Rainier in 1981. “That was Mount Everest” for them, he later remarked.
Former Washington Governor Jay Inslee paid tribute to Whittaker’s enduring spirit, likening his legacy to the lasting presence of Mount Rainier.
Whittaker is survived by his wife, Dianne Roberts, his sons Bob, Joss, and Leif, three grandchildren, and one great-grandchild.
This article was originally written by www.npr.org
